Fish, chips, gelati and home

Unfortunately we had to spend most of the day driving back to Perth. We stopped at Fremantle on the way (a great achievement considering we were low on maps and W was navigating) and after a detour through a carpark we arrived at the Fremantle docks. It was a very hard decision - the 'best fish and chips' or 'voted the best fish and chips'... we went with public opinion and ate at Kailis' Fish Market. Not sure I'd quite go as far as best fish and chips, since I'm not really into crumbly fish, but it was fairly good, especially when followed with gelati. After stopping to remove evidence of not driving on dirt roads, we handed our car back and headed off to the airport and home.

Wines and pubs in country towns

After our routine of a swim and a breakfast of fruit salad, a croissant with Jarlsberg & chutney and peppermint tea, we headed off to Mt Barker in search of more wineries. We missed the turnoffs for the first few and the first one we turned up at didn't have a cellar door. They did direct us to 2 more though, the first being open, the second was not (despite all the signs proclaiming the opposite). Finally succumbing to common sense and picking up a map with opening times, we headed off to a couple more, stopping for a really nice, simple steak sandwich before driving to Kojonup.

We arrived at a nice farmstay with sheep, kangaroos, dogs and metal cutouts of the owners. We asked for advice on places to eat that night - the recommended Caltex restaurant had lost its chef, but you could get takeaway and eat in the maze or the Commerical pub was apparently good; the other pub and the chicken shop which had changed owners 15 times in 2 years were not. So obediently, we headed off to the Commercial. It was a pretty typical pub - we had a drink, then found the restaurant, which had spotlit fake trees and tables surrounding Home & Away on a projector. So, following the basic tenet of ordering lemon chicken in a Chinese restaurant, we ordered a parma at the pub and did not pay on Amex before heading home.

Wind farms and more beaches

We started with a swim (it really helps if you run into the water screaming how cold it is as loud as you can... and being short so it only takes 5 seconds of running until you're drenched by the waves) followed by a great breakfast at the cafe joined to our accommodation. Then we set off trying to remember what the restaurant owner had told us the night before.

First stop, the wind farm (see above), which was surprisingly impressive and actually looked quite nice. After that, the Gap and the Bridge (see right). Next stop was 'after the camp sign, past the yellow squiggly sign, once you can see Albany again, park in the carpark on the right'... after a couple of detours, we think we found it - another amazing looking beach (see below).

After a relaxing afternoon reading the not-so-relaxing American Psycho (not quite holiday reading, but interesting anyway), we headed back for fish and chips by the beach. I'd been thinking earlier in the day that a bit of rain would be nice, to wash the red dust off our car, and just when W had gotten used to the seagulls we were forced to make a walk for it (a little bit of a drenching can't hurt).

Tingles and beaches

The next day we reluctantly left the kilns and headed off to see the Tingle Trees near Walpole. We walked through the Giant Tingle Tree (see right), did the Ancients Walk but couldn't quite bring ourselves to pay for the famous Treetop Walk (we'd seen enough treetops the day before). The tingles are amazing - in both red and yellow varieties, they are eucalypts that are often ‘hollowed out’ by fire and fungal attack. Despite this, they can still grow up to 75m tall (until tourists come and trample on their shallow roots...)

The lady at the tourist office recommended that we go to Greens Pool for lunch and it was brilliant advice. Despite being a little too windy for a picnic, we still managed to have one while gazing out at the perfect-looking, green-blue water (see left). We reluctantly left for Albany and it turned out that our accommodation had not only remembered us, but was also right near the beach. After W convinced me to have a swim (despite being crazily cold, I guess it wasn't his worst idea, since we swam 3 more times while there...), we went out for W's favourite-dinner-of-the-trip at the Mean Fiddler. It was one of those comfy, good value places (with a huge seafood platter including the biggest oysters I've ever had and a great lime dressing on the scallops) that had a fabulous owner - not only did he amusingly and confusedly try and serve us, but he also enthusiastically gave us brilliant directions on a trip for the next day...

Climbing trees & marron

Due to W's obsession with trees and climbing them, we spent the day doing just this (see left and below). First the Gloucester Tree (61m), then the Diamond Tree (52m), then finally the tallest, most impressive (and specially built), the Bicentennial Tree (75m).


Apart from the last one, these Karris were originally used as forest fire lookouts. It's quite a strange feeling being up that high, looking at the treetops from above them.

We also stopped off at a truffle and wine company and couldn't resist buying a bottle of white truffle oil (the black was also amazing).

That night we bought some marron (relative of the yabby) from the owner, tipped them into the sink, then working up our courage, picked them up alive and nipping and boiled them (see left)... think it's the first time I've eaten something I've killed and it was a strange feeling. Still, it was a very nice dinner of marron, truffle oil, fresh bread, roasted vegetables and wine (with a free eyebrow tinting for W thrown in - don't ask him about it).

Phantom part 4

We arrived in Northcliffe on a not-as-warm Thursday afternoon and found that the owner of our accommodation wasn't there. We were informed by one of his tutorees that he was on his way and when he turned up 20 minutes later, you guessed it... he didn't realise we were arriving! Once or twice, ok, three times, it's hilarious, but 4 times... what is so forgettable about us?!? (No need to answer that).

The only comforting thoughts were that the owner seemed like the kind of person who might forget - and our accommodation in a tobacco kiln (see right) was amazing. Peaceful, comfortable and complete with a vegie garden we could raid (which we did once we took a look at the Northcliffe pub).

From wine to Karri country

No trip with me is complete without a trip to the doctor, which unfortunately occupied our whole morning. After drugging me up, we stopped for strawberry cheesecake and cinnamon & ginger ice cream, then the 'best hot chocolate in the world' (not quite, but nicer than I expected for what looked like scalding milk and a clump of chocolate buttons) before leaving the wineries for the forests.

Phantom part 3

We arrived in Dunsborough on a warm Wednesday evening and found that the owner of our accommodation didn't have a record of our booking. Amusement turned to worry when we realised he was serious... but he found my emails and soon we were settled in our restored railway carriage (see right) trying to find kangaroos to feed.

Margaret River

After a quick stop by the Busselton Jetty (the longest wooden jetty (pier) in the southern hemisphere) (see right), we began our food and wine adventure.




The first stop was a cheese company, followed by wineries (see left), a venison farm, a fudge factory, more wineries, a nut and cereal shop and a chocolate factory. And as you do after a big day of eating and tasting, we went out for a very nice dinner at Assisi in Dunsborough.

Phantom part 2

We arrived in Bunbury on a warm Tuesday evening and found that there was no one home at our ChaletShed accommodation. Getting used to being forgotten about, we headed off for an authentic Chinese meal of lemon chicken and fried rice (both of which were bright yellow). It ended up that they did have our booking, it had just slipped their mind...

Rottnest Island & Perth

After demanding a refund from the backpackers, we headed off to Rottnest Island, stopping off to check out the sculptures dotting Cottesloe Beach (see pics below).

While S & N opted for the quokka walk, we hired bikes and snorkels and rode off to the beach. The fish were amazing - the best snorkelling I've ever done (although W correctly pointed out that I don't often snorkel, because I'm usually diving). It really felt like you were in an underwater world, peeking in on all the sea creatures.

We stopped at a couple of beaches, drying off during the rides in the sun, before it all ended in blood, sweat and no tears. I managed to test out my helmet (it does work) and end up with scrapes down the left half of my body attempting, I'm sure, a very difficult manoeuvre on the bicycle (don't ask me about it)...


The next day we spent in Perth, primarily collecting food for a picnic in Kings Park, which perhaps surprisingly, can take 3/4 of a day. I like Perth - very green, lots of water, very peaceful - but there really isn't that much to do there as a visitor. We picked up our 'no birds...' car (I still don't get the tag line), thanked S & N for their impromptu hospitality and headed off into the south west.

Phantom part 1

We arrived in Perth on a warm Sunday afternoon and found ourselves without a bed for the night. The backpackers (who'd already charged us) had no record of our booking. Fortunately, S & N let us crash on their floor...